Back on the Block
In an ealier primer; The Plane Basics I made a passing comment that a separate primer could put forth on block planes because of their versatility. So, here it is.
How or when the story that block planes derived that name from being used on butcher blocks is somewhat of a mystery and I’m of the opinion that it’s not entirely accurate. Normally a low angled plane such as a Stanley #64 was used to level the surface, first with a toothing iron then followed by using it’s straight iron. Stanley introduced the #64 specifically to level the tops of butcher blocks, which would make more sense since it’s about the size of a #5 jack. Stanley’s first block plane that they introduced was the #9 in 1870. This was about the size of a smoothing plane, was very square and heavy. They referred to it as a "cabinet maker’s block plane." Regardless, what can’t be disputed is the versatility of these smaller cousins to the bench planes.
There is a fairly wide variety of block planes but essentially they are held in one hand, the irons bedded at a lower angle than the bench planes with the bezel up, obviating the need for a cap iron. Some will have a lateral adjustment and mouth adjustment. For the purposes here, I will stick to the regular angle and low angle block planes. As you will soon find out lumping all block planes for end grain work is a mistake.
The Regular Angle Block Plane
This plane will be about 6 3/8ths inches in length and around 2 inches wide. The iron is bedded at 20º the screw cap usually being shaped to comfortably fit in the middle of the palm. Typically, the bezel is sharpened and honed at 25º and no less than 20º, the cutting edge would then become too fragile. So, if you look at a regular angle block that’s sharpened and honed at 25º you will see that the net angle of attack is the same as a conventional bench plane, Common Pitch (45º), not at all suitable for end grain work. Granted, the angle of attack can be lowered by sharpening and honing the bezel to 20º, a net angle of 40º really isn’t all that effective on end grain, particularly soft wood. So, what would be the advantage of owning a regular angle block?
In my opinion, there are a number of reasons. A regular angle block is indispensable when an edge needs to be chamfered, for smaller general purpose tasks, for detail work, touch up, and on highly figured wood. "Highly figured wood?" you ask. Yupper, if you have a piece of say Birds Eye Maple that you are having difficulty smoothing and you lack a smoothing plane with a York (50º) or Middle (55º) pitch, your regular angle block can be tuned for either one of those pitches. If your bezel is at 25º simply hone at 30º or 35º, establishing a "micro bezel" for the desired pitch. I will say that if you work with highly figured woods a lot, you might want to consider investing in a smoothing plane with either a Middle or York pitch. A regular angle block is also very useful when shooting smaller boards. Whether I’m in the shop or on site, my regular angle block is always in my apron. When I bevel a passage or entrance door, I always use my regular angle block first, then follow with the #6 or #7.
The Low Angle Block Plane
Typically, a low angle block plane will be about the same length as a regular angle block, but slightly narrower in width. Its bedding angle is at 12º and again the iron’s bezel is up. I sharpen and hone at 20º, which results in a 32º angle of attack, which is ideal for most end grain work. While I consider this plane to be limited for end grain work, its still very versatile nonetheless; chamfering end grain edges, leveling and smoothing dovetails once joined, and a myriad of detail or "fine" work done on the end grain. This plane is also usually found in my apron when I’m working.
If you do a lot of work in the softwoods here’s a tip that is very helpful. Sharpen and hone at 15º then put a 5º micro back bezel on and you’ll have a net 27º angle of attack on the end grain. The resulting cut will be as smooth as glass. A caution; do not do this on hard wood, the edge will be too fragile to cut properly. One thing to remember too is that by skewing the plane, you will lower the angle of attack. The greater the skew angle the lower the angle of attack.
Technique
In my view the most important thing to remember in regard to block planes is that they are used for "fine" work. As such, their irons should be kept razor sharp and set for very fine cuts. I consider these little guys as being precision instruments and treat them as such. The Stanley #9 1/2 and the #60 1/2 are considered by many to be the "classic" block planes and they have remained virtually unchanged since their introduction over a hundred years ago and I’ll point out the Lie-Neilsen counter parts are based entirely on the Stanley designs. They have adjustable mouth plates at the toe and I feel that this is a critical feature as well as lateral adjustments. Having the ability to adjust the mouth opening to properly support the fibers ahead of the iron greatly increases the quality of the cut. While this is not as critical for end grain work it certainly is for long grain work.
So then, the plane is held in one hand and is driven mostly by the arm with the pressure into the palm of the hand; I place my index finger on top of the mouth adjustment knob for added control. The biggest mistake I see in using block planes is that folks go back and forth with the plane, almost as if they are sanding. This is a huge "no no"; it damages the cutting edge. In reality the actual motions and forces used are not that much different from those used in driving a bench plane, you’re using only one hand instead of two.
Tuning or fettling these little guys aren’t all that much different from the bench planes either. You’ll want to make sure that the beds are flat as well as the soles, the cheeks at 90º to the sole, and of course finely sharpened and honed bezels. A comment on flat soles that I touched upon in the previously mentioned primer; what is most critical is that the toe, the mouth area, and the heel are coplanar. The entire surface need not be totally flat; in fact most luthiers will intentionally "hollow" out the spaces between these areas for increased performance of their block and chariot planes.
For many, it was a block plane that they first learned on and this is certainly true in my case…at the age of four. Which leads me to my closing comment; if any of you folks have a little munchkin about the shop that’s interested in working with wood, grab the block plane and let the little tyke go at it. Its small size is ideal for little hands…
Dano
"Form and function are one" - Frank Lloyd Wright